Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Friday, June 25, 2010
Crazy Americans
Here are some additional images from the celebration after the US-Algeria match on Thursday in Pretoria. I could've taken hundreds just like these.
Cote d'Ivoire v. People's Republic of Korea
We asked Adriaan Kruger if he was interested in the tickets or if he had any friends, family or clients that would want to see the match. It turns out that he and his wife had once hosted a student at their home from Nelspruit. The student comes from a family that is, in Adriaan's words "not very affluent." Todd and I took that to mean black and very poor. Unfortunately, since returning to Nelspruit, this student has become physically disabled. Adriaan said that his mother was very excited to be able to take her son to the game - she could never have afforded to buy tickets on her own. I hope they had a great time together.
Patriots
The best part of being in costume is that everyone wants a picture with you. I'd guess 50 people took pictures of Todd and I at the game - including a few professional photographers. Here I am with a fellow Patriot at halftime. She had just finished posing for a photo with Elvis.
Elation!
This is the scene after our miraculoius win against Algeria. Todd and I spent the next hour circling from group to group of Americans in the stadium trading high fives.
The Best Tequila
Readers from last November may recall my Best Pizza in the World post. I've decided that the best food and drinks in the world are not necessarily those that taste the best but rather those associated with the best experiences. Experiences that are a confluence of sights, smells and warm memories as well as the taste of the food and drink. These are experiences that are permanently etched in your memory.
The best pizza I've ever had was at The Cow in Queenstown, New Zealand. The pizza was magnificent - fresh ingredients over a crispy homemade dough baked in a hot stone oven that warmed the room. But what I remember most is sitting outside in a small alcove with the girls. Kristin and I had beer and the girls had root beer. Something got Iz and Kristin started and soon we were all howling with laughter - about what I can't remember. But I do remember the the chill of the evening air, the smoky scent of the hearth, the twinkling lights at the top of the mountain and the marvelous sound of my girls' laughter. The best pizza in the world!
I would not have expected to have a "best tequila" experience in South Africa (or ever, for that matter). But, it was an experience that found me. I will not soon forget Todd and I being surrounded by Mexicans on an unseasonably warm South African winter day throwing down a shot of what turned out to be one of Mexico's finest and most authentic tequilas: Herradura. Even better, it was squirted from a water bottle smuggled into a World Cup match by my new tocayo friend and his family. The drive to Rustenburg, crowding onto shuttle buses, the match itself, wandering aimlessly after the match looking for the right bus and the interminable drive home will fade from memory. But when I get home, Todd and I will fill a water bottle with Herradura, sit in the sun on a warm winter day and make a toast to El Tri and, of course, our friend Jorge.
The best pizza I've ever had was at The Cow in Queenstown, New Zealand. The pizza was magnificent - fresh ingredients over a crispy homemade dough baked in a hot stone oven that warmed the room. But what I remember most is sitting outside in a small alcove with the girls. Kristin and I had beer and the girls had root beer. Something got Iz and Kristin started and soon we were all howling with laughter - about what I can't remember. But I do remember the the chill of the evening air, the smoky scent of the hearth, the twinkling lights at the top of the mountain and the marvelous sound of my girls' laughter. The best pizza in the world!
I would not have expected to have a "best tequila" experience in South Africa (or ever, for that matter). But, it was an experience that found me. I will not soon forget Todd and I being surrounded by Mexicans on an unseasonably warm South African winter day throwing down a shot of what turned out to be one of Mexico's finest and most authentic tequilas: Herradura. Even better, it was squirted from a water bottle smuggled into a World Cup match by my new tocayo friend and his family. The drive to Rustenburg, crowding onto shuttle buses, the match itself, wandering aimlessly after the match looking for the right bus and the interminable drive home will fade from memory. But when I get home, Todd and I will fill a water bottle with Herradura, sit in the sun on a warm winter day and make a toast to El Tri and, of course, our friend Jorge.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Hangin' With The President
This was our view of President Clinton from our seats at the US-Algeria game.
Italy v. Slovakia
The crowd is mixed - mostly Italians but almost as many Slovakians.There are plenty of South Africans and even some Americans as well.
Despite my Italy hat, Todd and I are neutrals today. We may be secretly supporting Slovakia just to see an underdog make it to the round of 16 (and for New Zealand to have any chance we'd like to see a draw in this game and New Zealand beat Paraguay).
Tomorrow is a rest day. We had tickets to the Ivory Coast v. North Korea match tomorrow... but that's another story. For now we plan to do some sightseeing and laundry tomorrow and get plenty of rest before the US match on Saturday.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Craxy Mexican Fans!
Things got a little crazy at halftime. Jorge's family had come prepared with wigs in the green and orange colors of Mexico, several Mexican flags and even a poster of the Virgin of Guadalupe. And at halftime they dressed us up for pictures. Soon after this, two giant sombreros appeared and we dutifully obliged another round of photos.
7 Steps To Miss A World Cup Goal
There was only one goal in the Mexico vs. Uruguay match today... and I missed it! Here are my instructions for how to miss a World Cup goal:
1. Offer to stand in an absurdly long "cue" to buy beer for your new friends (BTW, this is nothing like what we call a "line" in the US, it is a crowd of people all trying to elbow their way to the front)
2. Return 20 minutes later with beer in hand, thankful that the score is still 0-0
3. Try to give Maria 10 SAR in change from the 100 SAR note she handed me for the 90 SAR beer purchase (while Uruguay mount an onfield attack)
4. Weakly insist on providing change even though Jorge and Maria insist that I keep it (while Uruguay send the ball wide and forward into the corner)
5. Accept their counterproposal for an alternative form of payment... a shot of tequilla (while Uruguay mass players in the penalty area)
6. Respectfully squirt a token ounce of tequilla from their "water" bottle onto, mostly, my chin (while Uruguay cross the ball and smash a header into the back of the net).
7. Hear a loud and collective cry of disbelief from the Mexican fans and wonder what just happened (while Uruguay celebrate what turns out to be the only goal of the match).
And that is how I missed a World Cup goal. I;ve decided that "Tequilla Shots" should be on the list of what not to do at a World Cup match. Beer, it turns out, is much easier to drink while keeping your eyes on the match.
Tocayos!
Imagine yourself sitting in a forest. The sounds of nature surround you and the sun warms you. Now imagine that a swarm of hornets envelopes you. Buzzing and swirling around you - unsure if you are a friend or foe. If you sit very still, maybe they won't notice you. Maybe they'll think you're part of the forest. Or maybe they will decide you're an interloper, an intruder pretending to fit in but really just another invader.
This is how it felt in section 215 at Rustenburg's Royal Bafokeng Stadium on Tuesday. Todd and I found our seats before the section filled with a sea of fevered Mexico supporters in green jerseys (luckily I had just purchased a green Mexico T-shirt). We must've had that "deer in headlights" look because Jorge and his family almost immediately adopted us into his family. Jorge and I hit it off immediately. Not only do we share the same name (which the Mexicans call tocayos) but we both have only daughters. Jorge (on the left above) is a jewler from Guadalajara. He is in South Africa with his son-in-law (not in the picture) and two of his four daughters (Maria and Gabby). The other two have infants at home and did not make the trip.
I hope that Iz, Amelia, Ella and I can be together in the stand for a US game at the 2026 World Cup. Maybe we will be able to pay forward Jorge's kindness and adopt two young foreigners wondering if they've wandered too far into a hornet's nest.
This is how it felt in section 215 at Rustenburg's Royal Bafokeng Stadium on Tuesday. Todd and I found our seats before the section filled with a sea of fevered Mexico supporters in green jerseys (luckily I had just purchased a green Mexico T-shirt). We must've had that "deer in headlights" look because Jorge and his family almost immediately adopted us into his family. Jorge and I hit it off immediately. Not only do we share the same name (which the Mexicans call tocayos) but we both have only daughters. Jorge (on the left above) is a jewler from Guadalajara. He is in South Africa with his son-in-law (not in the picture) and two of his four daughters (Maria and Gabby). The other two have infants at home and did not make the trip.
I hope that Iz, Amelia, Ella and I can be together in the stand for a US game at the 2026 World Cup. Maybe we will be able to pay forward Jorge's kindness and adopt two young foreigners wondering if they've wandered too far into a hornet's nest.
Adriaan Kruger's Extraordinary Hospitality
If I were being truly honest with myself, I would've admitted that the outlook was bleak. Several hundred thousand people have descended on South Africa for the World Cup and one of the major headlines was a shortage of rooms - where were they all going to sleep? So my call to a local travel agent to inquire about a "lodging upgrade" on Saturday morning was, to say the least, a longshot. But longshots are worthwhile, especially when you are desperate. And, thankfully, this longshot paid off.
Adriann Kruger resembles a middle-aged David Attenborough - an amiable yet street savvy man who looks more like a seasoned traveller than a travel agent. I know this because Adriaan not only found us a terrific guest house at a reasonable rate in a great location - not to mention that it was at the last minute, after-hours on a Saturday - but he also came to meet us, show us the way to the guesthouse and make sure that we got settled.
International travel can be overwhelming. It puts you outside your comfort zone - the customs are different, the people are different. The everyday rules that subconsciously guide your decisions and behavior - from looking right when you cross the road to assessing whether a stranger is a menace - now require constant focus and attention. Extraordinary hospitality under these circumstances is, well, extraordinarily valuable. I don't know if this level of hospitality is common in South Africa. It would be rare in the US. In any case, I am thankful for Adriaan and Sonia at 2lifetravel for their extraordinary hospitality.
Adriann Kruger resembles a middle-aged David Attenborough - an amiable yet street savvy man who looks more like a seasoned traveller than a travel agent. I know this because Adriaan not only found us a terrific guest house at a reasonable rate in a great location - not to mention that it was at the last minute, after-hours on a Saturday - but he also came to meet us, show us the way to the guesthouse and make sure that we got settled.
International travel can be overwhelming. It puts you outside your comfort zone - the customs are different, the people are different. The everyday rules that subconsciously guide your decisions and behavior - from looking right when you cross the road to assessing whether a stranger is a menace - now require constant focus and attention. Extraordinary hospitality under these circumstances is, well, extraordinarily valuable. I don't know if this level of hospitality is common in South Africa. It would be rare in the US. In any case, I am thankful for Adriaan and Sonia at 2lifetravel for their extraordinary hospitality.
"We Won, 1-1!"
The Kiwis come to the World Cup ranked #78 in the world - well behind perpetual underperformers like Burkina Faso, Lithuania, Macedonia and Gabon (do you even know where these places are???). But Sunday night they faced the 2006 World Cup champions who are currently ranked #5 in the world. When the final whistle blew, the Kiwis had played the mighty Italians to a 1-1 draw and the Kiwi supporters erupted with among the most genuinely joyful celebration I've ever seen. Our section of the stadium became the epicenter of a spontaneous party that lasted for over an hour and a half. With their unique blend of "No Worries" attitude with Maori ruggedness, the 1-1 draw was an immense accomplishment. As one of our new friends put it on the way out of Mbombela Stadium, "We Won, 1-1!"
Monday, June 21, 2010
That's us!
That's us! Right there. Do you see us? No? Look harder, we're right next to Waldo. Still can't see us? Find the row of Kiwis in white just in front of Cannavaro's shoulder. Now look just behind the 5th Kiwi from the left. Do you see that blue smudge? That's us! Right there.
Paula very resourcefully snapped an image of her paused TV screen and then emailed it to us at the game. The kiwi's were stunned to see themselves on TV and even more stunned that it was a snapshot taken in Atlanta.
Breakfast
TC's includes breakfast every morning. And it's a real breakfast - not the "continental" breakfast you get in Europe. We have eggs, toast, sausage, bacon (which is really ham), crumpets (pancakes), hot tea and fresh orange juice all served in a quiant little dinning room overlooking an interior courtyard.
With the free, secure parking, free breakfast, free wi-fi, our own bathroom, a TV and a comfortable room in a safe neighborhood, TC's has turned out to be an excellent decision.
TC's Guesthouse
This is the courtyard of TC's Guesthouse in Lynnwood Garden just outside Pretoria. It has been a fabulous base from whcih to explore South Africa.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Saturday, June 19, 2010
I Wish Colin Were Here
Colin would have a blast here. If it weren't for BP, he wouldn't be working 16 hour days in the Gulf and maybe, just maybe, we could've found a way to sneak him onto our flight in a large duffel bag. There's always Brazil in 2014!
My Travel Companion
Todd is a good travel companion. We both like to wander a bit aimlessly and can be happy anywhere beer is served and soccer is on TV. He's tolerant of my missteps and, importantly, he doesn't snore (much).
My Travel Style
I think everyone has a distinct travel style. I had a friend who was in utter disbelief that I was in Florence and didn't set foot in a single church or museum. "How could you be surrounded by the world's greatest collection of masterpieces and not want to see them? How could you walk by the greatest architecture of the Renaissance without even peeking inside?" In his eyes I had broken some sacred covenant of travel. But I missed nothing.
I remember sitting at a table just down from the Piazza di Santa Croce as the sun was setting. The white face of the Santa Croce was reflecting the deep, rich orange of the sky. The rest of the piazza had faded into a colorless collage of shadows. I remember the white of her dress catching that same deep orange between its delicate black trim. I remember her smile, the soft warm breeze, the din of traffic on the narrow stone street and the taste of the Multipulciano.
For me, travel is about experiences. It is about leaving the comfort of your routines, your home, your food, your bed and experiencing something by being part of it. You can't schedule experiences. They just happen, often unexpectedly. We did not plan to visit the Sant Croce. We simply wandered through. We didn't plan to sit and have a glass of wine. We just a heppened to find a little cafe. You can't go looking for experiences. They find you.
I had one last night. I was jetlag-tired and road weary when I finally collapsed into bed. But it was a sleepless night. I was homesick - irrationally, emotionally and obsessively compelled to pack up and find my way back to my comfortable bed in my comfortable home, back in the arms of my sweet girls. But in the depths of my misery I had a revelation, something as powerful and durable as that evening in Florence.
As it always does, the homesickness has faded to a manageable level after getting some sleep and today was much better. But my revelation is still with me. It was an unexpected experience that could only have found me when it did and where it did.
I certainly don't travel to experience sleepless nights filled with irrational homesickness but my travel style is about having experiences. Experiences that touch my soul, that shed light on who I am and ultimately transform me in ways that I would never expect.
I remember sitting at a table just down from the Piazza di Santa Croce as the sun was setting. The white face of the Santa Croce was reflecting the deep, rich orange of the sky. The rest of the piazza had faded into a colorless collage of shadows. I remember the white of her dress catching that same deep orange between its delicate black trim. I remember her smile, the soft warm breeze, the din of traffic on the narrow stone street and the taste of the Multipulciano.
For me, travel is about experiences. It is about leaving the comfort of your routines, your home, your food, your bed and experiencing something by being part of it. You can't schedule experiences. They just happen, often unexpectedly. We did not plan to visit the Sant Croce. We simply wandered through. We didn't plan to sit and have a glass of wine. We just a heppened to find a little cafe. You can't go looking for experiences. They find you.
I had one last night. I was jetlag-tired and road weary when I finally collapsed into bed. But it was a sleepless night. I was homesick - irrationally, emotionally and obsessively compelled to pack up and find my way back to my comfortable bed in my comfortable home, back in the arms of my sweet girls. But in the depths of my misery I had a revelation, something as powerful and durable as that evening in Florence.
As it always does, the homesickness has faded to a manageable level after getting some sleep and today was much better. But my revelation is still with me. It was an unexpected experience that could only have found me when it did and where it did.
I certainly don't travel to experience sleepless nights filled with irrational homesickness but my travel style is about having experiences. Experiences that touch my soul, that shed light on who I am and ultimately transform me in ways that I would never expect.
Lodging Upgrade
After a cold and loud night at the "lodge," Todd and I spent the day searching for alternate accompdations Of course, the entire country is booked for the World Cup but we were lucky to find a local travel agent who knew of a guest house with a few extra rooms. We are now at TC's Guesthouse (http://www.tcsguesthouse.co.za/), which is a significant upgrade. We are now comfortably settled in our room watching Ghana v. Australia. We have our own bathroom, our own TV, heat and, as far as I can tell, peace and quiet tonight.
Friday, June 18, 2010
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Back on the Road
It's not that we have not had any adventures or misadventures in the past 6 months - there have been plenty. It's just that it's been hard to find time to regularly catalog them. Life gets in the way of meaningful blogging. But today I am off to South Africa and will try to post pictures and thoughts along the way. Todd and I have tickets to 7 World Cup matches and will spend 3-days on safari before returning home. Stay tuned...
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)