Hang Nine, Dude

So surfing in Australia is not without it's risks: having a limb
become a shark's dinner, being stung by the man-killing box jelly and,
of course, getting your leash wrapped around a toe just before a huge
breaker whips the line taught. But fear not! I have survived three
surfing adventures in the last 24 hours (including an incredible
6:30am surf this morning). Totally worth sacrificing a toe.